Day beds and sleeper sofas are EXPENSIVE!
So I decided to build my own out of nothing but 2×4’s. And the best part? It was under $100! Build Plans for the Daybed are now available in the Shop HERE!
Our home office doubles as our guest room and because the room is fairly small, having a queen size bed required way too much space. My solution was to build a couch that folded out into a queen size platform bed. I designed and built it myself and custom made it to fit the tri-fold foam mattress and Japanese futon that we already owned. It is designed for functionality and is a simple, minimalistic design. I am NOT a professional woodworker and by no means an expert. I’m merely sharing my process and what worked for me.
I drew up a sketch with my measurements, came up with a cut list, then it was off to Home Depot!
This page contains affiliate links. If you choose to purchase after clicking a link, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. These commissions help me pay for operating costs for the blog and are greatly appreciated. Thank you for your support!
MATERIAL LIST
(19) 2x4x8
(1) 1x8x6
(1) ¼” x 48” wood dowel
2” Star Drive Construction Screws
(4) Metal Brackets
Sandpaper (80/120/180/220 grit)
Tung Oil (optional)
CUT LIST
(16) 2×4 x78”
(8) 2×4 x29”
*(8) 2×4 x12”
(1) 1×8 x71”
TOOL LIST
Miter Saw or Miter Box with Hand Saw
Propane Torch Kit (optional for Yakisugi finish)
DIMENSIONS
Bench: 78”L x 29”D x 33”H
Bed: 58.5”W x 78”L x16.5”H
15” clearance under bench
*Note: This build can be customizable. If you’re not putting a pad on the bench, it is a perfect height but if you’re putting a cushion or futon on top, the bench becomes higher. Adjust the 12” pieces down accordingly to accommodate for the height of the cushion.
I got this tri-fold queen size memory foam mattress from Amazon that I used for the measurements. This mattress is 78″x58″x4″ but it comes in other sizes as well.
Build Plans
I started by cutting down the 2×4’s for the base legs and arm rests. I made 4 identical rectangles with the long pieces horizontally (29″) and the short pieces (12″) vertically.
I drilled countersink holes with a 1/4″ drill bit about 1/2″ into the wood. I assembled the pieces using my favorite E-Z clamps and screwed them together after applying wood glue.
Next, I cut down (16) 2×4’s to 78″ for the slats. I repeated the same process of drilling countersink holes, two per piece, using the precision double square to get the holes lined up evenly. I applied wood glue to the bases and screwed in the outer 2×4’s first. I spaced out the remaining 2×4’s before screwing them all into place. They are NOT butted up against each other, there is a small space between each one to provide air flow. Because the 2×4’s are not perfectly shaped or even (I don’t have a planer), I didn’t use a specific measurement for the space between, I just eyeballed it.
After the two identical benches were made, I put a drop of wood glue in each hole and put the dowel into the countersink hole and cut it off with the flush cut saw.
Now it’s time to sand everything down starting with 80 grit, then 150, then 180, then 220 and 400 if you really want a super smooth finish. I usually sand to 220 if I’m staining, it seems to adhere better. If you have any gaps around the dowels, you can use wood filler, or add a bit of glue before sanding over it. This will cover any seams nicely.
The last cut to make was for the backrest. Cut down the 1×8 to 71″, sand it down and then attached it to the armrests on one of the benches. I angled it slightly by attaching the top of the board to the back of the 2×4’s and the bottom of the board to the front of the 2×4’s. On the top, the L brackets are in the front and on the bottom the brackets are on the back.
Next, you’re going to stack the top bench with the backrest on top of the lower bench. Line them up and attach the hinges. I drilled pilot holes after marking where I wanted the hinges to go.
Now you’re ready for finishing touches! I chose to do a light Yakisugi finish which is a Japanese wood preservation technique and really brings out the wood grain. I used a propane torch to get this effect.
Wipe it down with a lint free rag and then apply wood oil. Allow it to dry for 24 hours and you are DONE! I did have to take off the hinges to get it into the room but that was very easy and made it easier to carry each half with two people. Once you have it in the room it will live in, you can easily reassemble it by reattaching the hinges.
Something to think about if you’re planning on building this project is how thick the futon or mattress will be when it’s being used as a couch. I designed mine so that the mattress could be stored underneath. Without the cushion, the bench is at the perfect height but with the futon on it, the bench height becomes a little higher than ideal. I don’t mind it because it is a deep couch that you can pull your feet up under you and it’s actually quite comfortable. However, I wouldn’t want this to be a living room couch. It’s a perfect piece of furniture for it’s intended use, in our home office as another place to sit and then a bed when guests arrive.
Let me know if you have questions about this build and if you make your own, I’d love to see it! If you want more content, behind the scenes and video tutorials, please follow me on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook and YouTube. If you found this free content helpful, please consider a Patreon donation.
Happy DIY-ing!
-Selene Builds Things
Make a one-time donation
Make a monthly donation
Make a yearly donation
Choose an amount
Or enter a custom amount
Your contribution is appreciated.
Your contribution is appreciated.
Your contribution is appreciated.
DonateDonate monthlyDonate yearly
