My Trip to Portugal!

🇵🇹 Why Visit Portugal? Here are 9 Reasons:

1. Beautiful Landscapes
From the golden cliffs of the Algarve to the lush vineyards of the Douro Valley and the fairy-tale forests of Sintra, Portugal has a lot to offer!

2. Coastal Vibes + Hidden Beaches
Portugal’s coastline is stunning, with over 850 km of beaches, coves, and dramatic cliffs. Perfect for surfing, sunbathing, relaxing and exploring.

3. Affordable Travel
Compared to other Western European countries, Portugal is budget-friendly, has great food, comfortable stays, and attractions that won’t break the bank.

4. Incredible Food & Wine
Did I mention the great food? From Pastéis de nata, fresh grilled sardines and seafood, porco preto, to world-class wines (hello, Port and Vinho Verde). Foodies will not be disappointed!

5. Warm, Welcoming People
You can expect welcoming Portuguese hospitality, friendly greetings, helpful directions, and a laid-back, respectful culture. Most people speak some English, but it’s always nice to greet people in Portuguese and give it your best effort!

6. Deep History & Architecture
Roman ruins, Moorish castles, Gothic cathedrals, beautiful azulejos (tiles) everywhere. Each city feels like a living museum.

7. Easy to Travel Around
Portugal is compact and well-connected. No need for a rental car with Bolt (similar to Uber) as well as convenient public transportation via trains and ferries. You can see a lot in a short amount of time.

8. Rich Cultural Scene
From Fado music in Lisbon to traditional festivals and colorful markets, culture and tradition are woven into everyday life.

9. Safe and Solo-Friendly
Portugal consistently ranks as one of the safest countries in the world, making it great for solo travelers, families, and first-time adventurers.

This is why you should go to Portugal, but why did I go? In addition to all of the reason above, I also went to visit my godmother and also to scope out some potential real estate for the future!

There is absolutely no way you can squeeze everything into just a week in Portugal, but I did my best to do as much as possible! Here was my itinerary:

Day 1: Lisbon to Setúbal

I took a redeye direct from JFK to Lisbon, about a 9 hour flight. Not too bad! I was shocked when I was served two complimentary meals on the Delta flight (dinner and breakfast) and it included free alcoholic drinks as well!

I’ve heard some horror stories about the Lisbon airport but for me it was easy breezy! Customs was pretty quick, I got my checked bag and headed out to meet my godmother.

We took a Bolt (just like Uber) from Lisbon to Setúbal where she lives. Since my flight landed at 8am, we had the whole day ahead of us! It was a beautiful drive across the Tagus River (Rio Tejo) via the Vasco da Gama Bridge (Ponte Vasco da Gama) which crosses the Tagus Estuary near its mouth at the Atlantic.

Fun Fact: The Vasco da Gama Bridge is the longest bridge in Europe (about 17 km).

Once we arrived in Setubal and got settled, we took a walk through town, checked out the shops, got an espresso and went to the most incredible market, the 🐟 Mercado do Livramento: Setúbal’s Must-Visit Market.

If you’re anywhere near Setúbal, don’t skip the Mercado do Livramento. It’s one of Portugal’s most iconic food markets and a sensory dream for travelers who love local culture. This isn’t just a market, it’s a whole experience!

Why You’ll Love It:

• Fresh everything: Olives, cheeses, fruits, breads, pastries and more! Everything is local, seasonal, and beautifully displayed.
• World-class seafood: Setúbal’s known for its cuttlefish, sardines, and other Atlantic catches. You’ll see fishermen wheeling in crates right off the boats!
• Gorgeous azulejos: The walls are lined with blue-and-white Portuguese tiles telling stories of the region’s maritime heritage.

Where & When To Go:

Located right on Avenida Luísa Todi, this massive indoor market is open Tuesday to Sunday from 7:00 AM to 2:00 PM (closed Mondays).

Insider Tips:

• Go Early! that’s when the locals shop and the fish is flopping-fresh.
• Bring cash, and don’t be shy about pointing and asking about things. Vendors are friendly and love helping visitors.
• Try a bifana or pastel de nata from nearby cafés after your market stroll.
• Great for photos, especially the colorful seafood displays and ornate tile murals. Go early for best light and fewer crowds.

We bought a few things from the market including a Pastel de Nata, a must try while you’re in Portugal!

🥮 What Is a Pastel de Nata?

It’s a creamy egg custard tart with a crisp, flaky puff pastry shell, usually topped with a little cinnamon or powdered sugar. Served warm, it’s got this golden caramelized top and a silky, not-too-sweet filling. Deliscious!

A Quick Backstory:

• Born in Belém (Lisbon): Created by monks at the Jerónimos Monastery in the 18th century. Monks used egg whites for starching clothes and had tons of yolks left over and voila, custard tarts were born!
• They sold the recipe to a nearby bakery in 1837, which became the legendary Pastéis de Belém.

How to Eat It Like a Local:

• Order it with a bica (Portuguese espresso).
• Sprinkle cinnamon or powdered sugar on top (available at most bakeries).
• Eat it warm. Always warm. Some spots even flame the tops slightly for a brûlée-style crisp.

For dinner, I had to try choco-frito (fried cuttlefish). If there’s one dish that defines Setúbal, it’s choco frito! It’s crispy, golden fried cuttlefish that’s wildly popular with locals and visitors alike.

🐙 What is Choco Frito?

“Choco” means cuttlefish (a cousin of squid), and “frito” means fried. The dish is made by marinating strips of cuttlefish in garlic, white wine, and herbs, then lightly coating them in flour and frying until crispy outside, tender inside. It’s usually served with: Batatas fritas (fries or potato rounds), lemon wedges and sometimes a side salad.

It’s kind of like calamari, but meatier, richer, and full of flavor. I really enjoyed it!

A Quick Bit of History:

Setúbal sits on the Sado River, and its history is deeply tied to fishing. Cuttlefish have been abundant in these waters for centuries, and this dish started out as a humble, home-style seafood fry-up for local families and fishermen.

Over time, it became a regional specialty, now served in cafes, beachside shacks, and top restaurants. You’ll even find statues and murals dedicated to choco frito in Setúbal!

📍 Where to Try It

• Casa Santiago – O Rei do Choco Frito: Known as the “King of Fried Cuttlefish”. No frills, just iconic.
• Tasca da Avenida or Martróia: Great options for a cozy meal near the waterfront.
• Market-adjacent eateries: Grab a plate after visiting Mercado do Livramento for a super local lunch.

Pro Tip:

Order it with a cold glass of white wine (try Setúbal’s Moscatel or Vinho Verde) and sit outside if you can, it’s the perfect seaside food.

Day 2: Tróia Peninsula and Forte de São Filipe

After a good night’s sleep, I was ready for a full day of exploring! We took a  catamaran to Tróia Peninsula to check out the beach and have some lunch.

There is a catamaran ferry for foot traffic and also a car ferry that goes to a different part of Tróia. We accidentally bought tickets for the car ferry and then had to exchange them for tickets on the catamaran so make sure you’re in the right terminal! They’re about a 5 minute walk apart from each other at the port. Pedestrian fare is very reasonable (around  5–6 euros for a one‑way) though prices for vehicles aboard the car‑ferry are a bit higher.

Skipping the car‑ferry or long drive, the catamaran drops you right into Tróia’s pedestrian zone so you can step off and wander straight into the resort, casino, beach, and marina. It’s only about a 15-20 minute boat ride and they depart every hour back and forth.

Once we arrived, we walked the long boardwalk to the wide‑open beaches of the Tróia Peninsula. The white sand beach and clear blue water are stunningly beautiful! We were here in September during the off-season, so the beach was not crowded at all and it was very quiet and peaceful.

We walked back towards the marina and decided on lunch at Contrabando Tróia. I was excited to try Secretos Porco Preto which I ordered with a crisp, cool glass of Rosé and a salada de abacate (avocado salad). The Porco Preto was SO GOOD! I’ve never had pork like this in the states. It’s even better than pork belly!

What Is Porco Preto? It’s Portugal’s Beloved Black Iberian Pig

Porco preto (literally “black pig”) refers to the Iberian black pig, a native breed raised mostly in southern Portugal, especially the Alentejo region. It’s the same breed used for Spain’s jamón ibérico, but in Portugal, it gets its own delicious identity.

How It’s Raised:

• Porco preto pigs are. Free-range and often pasture-raised
• Fed a natural diet of acorns, herbs, and grains
• Slow-grown, which gives the meat time to develop rich marbling and deep flavor

This acorn diet gives the meat a nutty, slightly sweet flavor, similar to how acorn-fed pigs in Spain are prized for their cured ham. But in Portugal, porco preto is also eaten fresh and grilled, not just cured.

What to Try:

You’ll find porco preto all over Portuguese menus in these mouthwatering forms:

• Plumas – Thin, tender cuts from the shoulder/back, grilled medium-rare
• Secreto – Marbled “secret” cut, juicy and rich (this is what I had and it was delicious!)
• Lagartos – Strips from between the ribs, leaner but still flavorful
• Costeletas – Black pork ribs, grilled with garlic and lemon

Served with potatoes, migas (a garlicky breadcrumb mix), or salad, it’s Portuguese comfort food at its finest.

Forte de São Filipe: Setúbal’s Hilltop Fortress with a View

We took the ferry back to town and decided to go up to the Forte de São Felipe. It was a short car ride from town via Bolt.

Perched high above the city of Setúbal, the Forte de São Filipe is more than just a historic site, it’s a quiet escape with sweeping views, rich stories, and one of the best photo ops in the region.

There is a cafe at the top with amazing views, where I tried my first Super Bock beer.

A Bit of History:

• Built in the late 16th century under King Philip I of Portugal (also Philip II of Spain during the Iberian Union).
• It’s purpose was to defend Setúbal and the Sado River estuary from pirates and naval invasions.
• Designed by Italian architect Filippo Terzi, the fortress is part of a wider network of coastal defenses.

Inside, you’ll still find a baroque-style chapel with traditional azulejos (blue-and-white tiles) dedicated to Our Lady of the Conception, the fort’s spiritual protector.

Why Visit?

• The Views: From the ramparts, you’ll see the entire city of Setúbal, the Sado River, Tróia Peninsula, and out to the Atlantic Ocean. On a clear day, (which it was), it’s absolutely breathtaking.
• The Vibe: It’s much quieter than tourist-heavy spots. You might even have it mostly to yourself.
• The History: Wander through old battlements and tunnels, and imagine cannon fire echoing across the estuary centuries ago.

How to Get There:

Located just above Setúbal’s center, it’s about a 10-minute drive or a challenging 30-minute uphill walk (steep but scenic). We opted to take Bolt. There is parking available near the top as well.

Pro Tips:

• Time your visit for late afternoon or golden hour. The light on the water is magical!
• Bring water, comfy shoes and sunscreen if you’re walking up. There is a cafe at the top where you can enjoy an espresso,“água com gás” which is sparkling water (literally, “water with gas”). beer or glass of wine.

Day 3: Exploring Setúbal

We explored more of town today, walking around enjoying the history and architecture. The Terreiro de Jesus & the Igreja de Jesus and Mosteiro de Jesus (Church / Monastery of Jesus) are worth seeing!

The church and its monastic complex are located on the square known as Terreiro de Jesus in Setúbal. The square itself offers a pretty calm, open space in the heart of the city, ideal to sit, sip a coffee, people-watch, and take in the architecture.

Why It Stands Out:

• The church (built between 1490‑1510) is one of the earliest examples of the Portuguese “Manueline” style (that ornate late Gothic style unique to Portugal).
• Its interior features twisted, rope‑like granite columns (“Solomonic” style) that are visually striking and rare for the time.
• The stone used in these columns and other architectural elements is from the nearby Serra da Arrábida (the Arrábida range) which gives it the distinctive local pink color.
• From a design‑history perspective, architect Diogo de Boitaca used this church as something of an experimental project before his later major works, like the famous Jerónimos in Lisbon.

Architectural & Material Highlights:

• The twisted columns: Each is actually composed of three intertwined sub‑columns, supporting arches in the nave. They are quite impressive!
• The vaulting: The ceiling features late Gothic ribbed vaulting, some ribs designed like twisted rope motifs, tying into the whole “twist” visual theme.
• The stone and marble: The columns (and other elements) are made from breccia from the Arrábida, giving that mottled, reddish‑pink stone effect. Absolutely beautiful!
• Exterior and square: The square and façade may appear plain at first glance, but as you step in and look at the details (twisted columns, stone, vaults) you realize how rich the architecture is. Not to mention all the cobbled streets which you’ll see later.

That evening, we walked into town to go to a local bar, Gatsby Cocktailaria, that is owned and frequented by ex-pats. This was one of the only places we went where everyone was speaking English and not Portuguese. Gatsby is a craft cocktail bar in the historic center of Setúbal with luxe décor and innovative, world-themed cocktails and skilled bartenders. They often have themed events, live music, burlesque shows, and are very welcoming to both locals and travelers.

When we went, they were having a birthday party for the owners and there was a huge buffet of food and a magician was making the rounds entertaining guests.

I had the Peruvian themed drink, the “Rojo de Los Andes” which had El Gobernador Pisco infused with corriander, beetrout coulis, orange juice, lemon juice, white vermouth and ginger syrup. Complete with a huge smoky bubble on top and absolutely delicious! It was so good I didn’t want to try anything else!

Day 4: Day Trip to Sesimbra

Today we took a Bolt to the town of Sesimbra and ate lunch at a French bistro called Bistrot Vin’tage. We ate outside with a view of the water and had a really nice lunch. If you’re looking for a break from seafood and Portuguese dishes, this is a great spot! I had the Diana Tosta, an open-faced sandwich with cheese, bacon, ham, egg, tomato and sprouts along with a glass of vinho verde and a coffee for dessert.

I learned that my favorite coffee to order is an “Abatenado Pingado” which is like an Americano with a bit of steamed milk and foam. Kind of like a mix between an Americano and a cappuccino. If you just order a coffee, you’re going to get an espresso served with a packet of sugar, no milk.

Sesimbra is a cute little beach town, perfect if you want to relax by the water. It is a bit more touristy and there are lots of little gift shops to check out. I actually got a ring that was only 4 euros!

Why Sesimbra is Worth Visiting:

Sesimbra is a charming coastal town in the Setúbal District, about 40 km south of Lisbon. It sits on a curving turquoise bay, backed by the hills of the Serra da Arrábida natural park so you get beach + mountains + an authentic fishing‑village all in one.
Originally a fishing port, Sesimbra still retains that maritime character: you’ll see boats coming in, fish being readied, seafood restaurants lining the promenade which is all part of it’s local flavor and charm.

What to Do & See:

• Castelo de Sesimbra – High above the town, this castle offers sweeping views over the bay and coast. We didn’t go up there but it’s supposed to be a great photo spot.
• Beaches – The main beach in town is very accessible and family‑friendly. Beyond that, there are smaller more hidden gems if you have transport. Again, we just took a Bolt to and from.
• Town center & harbor – Wander the sloping streets, watch the fishing boats, browse boutiques, soak in the local pace and chill on the beach.
• Nature & coast – Because Sesimbra sits at the foot of the Arrábida hills, a short trip from town takes you into more dramatic landscapes, cliffs, and nature trails.

How To Get There:

• From Setúbal to Sesimbra it’s about 40–45 minutes (32 km) via the scenic N379 road through the Arrábida Natural Park. This route is winding but gorgeous! You drive past cliffs, forests, and coastal viewpoints.
• From Lisbon to Sesimbra it’s around 40–50 minutes (38 km) via A2 + N378 or the 25 de Abril Bridge.

Pro Tips:

• Time to stay: A full day is great for Sesimbra. Arrive late morning, have lunch, take an afternoon walk on the beach, shop or visit the castle.
• What to bring: Swimwear, sunscreen + sandals for beach time, comfortable shoes if climbing to the castle, maybe a light jacket for the breeze by the coast.
• When to go: Outside peak tourist season offers a calmer experience, though the town still has energy. Again, we were here in September and it was during the week, so it was way more relaxed and less crowded.

Day 5: Palmela Medieval Fair

I happened to time my trip just right to attend the Feira Medieval de Palmela, which is one weekend in September every year. Where else can you go to a medieval fair that’s at an actual castle? It was pretty cool! We probably would have gone to check out the Castelo de Palmela anyway, but the fair made it even better.

Held in the historic hill‑town of Palmela (in Setúbal District, about 30 minutes south of Lisbon), the 3 day event is a journey back in time to the Middle Ages. The setting is magical: the fair spreads through the town’s Castelo de Palmela and its historic centre, combining markets, street performances, reenactments and medieval ambiance. The medieval market (feira franca) was filled with artisan stalls, crafts, food & drink along with street entertainment, knights on horseback, music, falconry, acrobatics and juggler acts. .Combine with Other Stops: Since you’re already exploring the Setúbal region, you could pair Palmela with a wine‑tour stop (this area is known for it), or as a break on the way to/from Lisbon or Setúbal. I will definitely be doing some more wine tasting next time!

Lots of people were in costume and you could even rent costumes to dress in medieval garb to take photos and really get into the action. What made it really cool was the historic setting of the castle & old town which really makes it immersive. You’re literally walking where it might’ve happened centuries ago.

Pro Tips:

• Location & Access: Palmela is south of Lisbon/Setúbal; if you’re already in Setúbal it’s an easy addition to your trip.
• Tickets: For 2025, a single‑day wristband cost ~€4, and I believe kids under 12 had free entry with the purchase of an adult wristband.
• Dress‑Up: If you want to join the fun fully, consider renting a medieval costume onsite (prices given in 2025: 1 day €11)
• Best Time to Visit: Arrive early (especially Saturday) to avoid big crowds; Friday may be quieter but still lively. We went on Saturday and got there right when it opened. It was a cloudy day and eventually started raining right as it was getting crowded and as we were leaving.
• Footwear & Mobility: The castle and historic lanes are cobbled and steep in parts so wear comfortable shoes. You’ll also want to carry a tote bag in case you buy souvenirs and things to take home.
• Food & Drink: There were tons of themed food stalls. We got some more porco preto and sausages with pickled vegetables that were really good (photo below)! It’s a great way to try some local specialties with a historic twist
• Parking & Access: Since the fair is in the castle area, parking may be outside the old town; plan for a short walk uphill. We took a Bolt so we didn’t have to worry about parking.

Day 6: Lisbon

For my last couple days in Portugal, we decided to spend them in Lisbon. We took the train from Setúbal station and rode into Lisbon, about an hour train ride. From there we got on a ferry to ride across the river which dropped us right into the heart of the city. You get a great view of Lisbon on the ferry!

We walked right past the iconic plaza right on the Tagus River waterfront, where the ferry drops you off in Lisbon. It’s called the Praça do Comércio also known as Terreiro do Paço. It’s definitely a hub of Lisbon life, lined with cafés, museums, and views of the Rua Augusta Arch and the 25 de Abril Bridge in the distance. It’s one of Lisbon’s largest and most famous squares, surrounded by yellow Pombaline-style buildings and arched arcades. Historically, it was the site of the Royal Palace before it was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake.

We walked to our hotel which was the cutest boutique hotel and our room had a Juliet balcony with a view of the waterfront, the Cristo Rei (Christ the King) monument and the bridge! When I saw it, I immediately thought of the statue in Brazil so I looked it up to confirm.

Fun Fact:

The Cristo Rei (Christ the King Monument) was in fact inspired by Rio de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer. It stands 28-meter-tall statue on a 75-meter pedestal, overlooking the Tagus River located on the Almada side of the river, facing Lisbon with open arms, offering a sense of peace and protection. It was built in 1959 as a symbol of gratitude for Portugal being spared the horrors of WWII.

Right next to our hotel was the Pink Street which is a short, pedestrian lane officially named Rua Nova do Carvalho. At one time, it was the gritty red‑light district, but has been revived into a funky nightlife and photo spot, with the pavement painted pink, colorful umbrellas overhead and lots of bars and casual restaurants.

We walked around the city all day, taking in the tourists, the shops and the sites then found a nice spot for dinner.

Day 7: Sintra

For my last day in Portugal, we took the train from Lisbon Rossio station to Sintra, about a 40 minute ride. We bought our tickets the day before and checked the schedule so we knew when to arrive. Trains run every 20-3o minutes but I recommend getting there a little early so you can get seats.

Once you arrive at Sintra train station, you’ll need transport to reach the main sights, as they’re quite spread out and up steep hills.

Tuk-Tuks vs. Buses: What’s the Best Way to Get Around?

Tuk-Tuks

• Fast & fun: Tuk-tuks are the quickest and most flexible way to get around.
• Local drivers double as guides, sharing stories as you ride.
• Great if you’re short on time or want to avoid long lines.
• Cost: ~€5–10 per person per ride (depends on route/negotiation).
• Tip: You can also hire a tuk-tuk for a custom loop of the top attractions — handy if you’re doing a half-day visit.

Tourist Buses (434/435)

• Bus 434 does a one-way loop from the station to Sintra town ➝ Moorish Castle ➝ Pena Palace ➝ back to station
• Cost: ~€11.50 for a hop-on-hop-off ticket (2025 rate).
• Slower, but great if you’re traveling on a budget.
• Gets crowded in high season, and waits can be long.

We opted to take the bus since it was cheap and not too crowded since we visited during the off season.

What to See & Do in Sintra:

1. Palácio da Pena (Pena Palace)

• The postcard-perfect palace with bright colors, domes, and towers.
• Mix of romanticism, Moorish, and Gothic styles.
• Tour the interiors, then walk the castle walls for 360° views over Sintra and the Atlantic. Less flashy, but rich in history and tile work.

2. Castelo dos Mouros (Moorish Castle)

• Ancient stone fortress ruins with dramatic hilltop views.
• Great for photos and history lovers — plus fewer crowds than Pena.

3. Quinta da Regaleira

• Enchanted gardens, underground tunnels, and the famous Initiation Well — one of the most Instagrammed spots in Portugal.
• Every corner has symbolic carvings, hidden passages, and mossy stone paths.

4. Palácio Nacional de Sintra

• Right in the town center — known for its iconic twin chimneys.

5. Monserrate Palace

• Off the beaten path = fewer crowds.
• Exotic gardens, Moorish architecture, and peaceful atmosphere.

Pro Tips:

• Plan for at least 4–6 hours to properly enjoy the top spots.
• Buy entry tickets online to avoid massive queues, especially for Pena Palace.
• Wear comfy shoes: cobblestones + hills = no joke!
• If you’re short on time, prioritize Pena Palace + Quinta da Regaleira.
• Bring water + snacks! There are not many places to stop inside the park areas.

There is a lot to see and do here and we didn’t even come close to seeing it all. We started at the Moorish Castle, then went to the Pena Palace but couldn’t get in for a couple hours so we decided to get some lunch. We made the mistake of not bringing water and snacks, so we needed to get something quickly. We hopped back on the bus and took a chance getting off at one of the stops in town. We lucked out by finding this cute little alleyway lined with several restaurants. We had a great lunch, hopped back on the bus and went to the Palace.

After that, it was getting late and we were getting tired from walking, but there was one more thing I had to try!

I walked through the shops until I found Casa Piriquita to try the famous Travesseiro which means “pillow” and it’s exactly that: a flaky, sugar-dusted puff pastry filled with almond and egg cream. Paired with a coffee, it was really rich but tasty! You can also try queijadas there, a small sweet cheese tart, which is another Sintra specialty (I did not try these). Casa Piriquita has been serving these since the mid-1800s, and it’s still family-run!

We took the train back to Lisbon, strolled the streets until we found a place for dinner. It was an excellent last meal and the perfect way to end my trip!

I’m already excited to go back and visit Portugal again!

Have you been to Portugal? I’d love to hear about your favorite spots!

Until next time, happy travels!

-Selene

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