How to Build a Cabinet Box (Quick Overview)
The cabinet box is built from a single sheet of 3/4 inch plywood, joined with wood glue and pocket hole screws. Cut the bottom, two sides, and stretchers, cut a groove in the sides for a 1/4 inch back panel, then assemble the box and slide the back into place. A butcher block top finishes it off. Here is the full cut list and step by step. This is Part 2 of my DIY custom cabinet series.
Now that the base is built (see this post), the next step is building the cabinet box. This is very a beginner friendly DIY that anyone can do with the right tools! Here’s everything you need:
This page contains affiliate links. If you choose to purchase after clicking a link, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. These commissions help me pay for operating costs for the blog and are greatly appreciated. Thank you for your support!
Tools:
- Drill & Driver
- Table Saw
- Miter Saw
- Circular Saw
- Kreg Rip Cut Guide
- Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
- Clamps
- Tape Measure
- Table Saw Push Block
- Brass Set Up Blocks
- Corner Clamps
Materials:
- (1x) 3/4″ plywood 4 x 8′
- (1x) 1/4″ plywood 4 x 8′
- Butcher Block
Supplies:
*Note: your cabinet will likely have different dimensions since this is custom to my space. If you don’t want to build the cabinet door, I recommend building the cabinet boxes to a standard size so you can purchase the doors separately since that is the most difficult part to build. I will be building my own door, however, so if you’re looking to learn how to do that as well, I will cover that in the next post.
Cut List:
- (1x) Bottom 3/4″ ply 21 x 35 1/4″
- (2x) Sides 3/4″ ply 30 x 35
- (4x) Stretchers 3/4″ ply 4 x 19 1/2″
- (1x) Butcher Block Top 21 x 35 1/4″
- (1x) Back 1/4″ ply 20 x 30″
Step 1:
First, I determined how to rip down the plywood so that I could get all the pieces I needed from one sheet of plywood.
Step 2:
Rip down all the pieces using the table saw or circular saw for the crosscut pieces larger than 24″.
Step 3:
Drill pocket holes with the Kreg jig on the two sides to attach to the bottom and pocket holes on the stretchers to attach to the top and back. I forgot to do this beforehand, but it would have been helpful to pre-drill holes in the top stretchers to later attach the butcher block to. Not a huge deal, but would have made things a bit easier.
Step 4:
Using the table saw, cut a 1/4″ wide and 3/8″ deep groove measured 3/4″ in from the back on both side pieces. This will allow the 1/4″ ply back to slide into the grooves and allow the 3/4″ stretchers to attach behind the back piece. If you’re attaching the cabinet to the wall, you can do this before sliding in the back piece that way the screws will be completely hidden.
Step 5:
Next we’re going to assemble the box with wood glue and 1 1’4″ pocket hole screws. Attach the sides to the bottom first. I have the pocket holes facing outward on the sides since they will be hidden by the washer and dryer. If the side of your cabinet is visible, you may want to have the pocket holes on the inside of the cabinet instead.
Step 6:
Once you have the sides attached to the bottom, attach the stretchers to the top and back making sure to leave space for the back piece to slide into the grooves. Use clamps to hold the stretchers in place while you screw them in.
Step 7:
Once the box is assembled and the stretchers are attached, you can slide in the back panel. That’s it! You’ve built a cabinet box!
Cabinet Box FAQs
What joinery holds the cabinet box together?
Wood glue and pocket hole screws drilled with a Kreg jig. Pocket hole joinery is strong, beginner friendly, and hides the screws, which makes it ideal for plywood cabinet boxes.
Do I have to use these exact dimensions?
No, mine are custom to my laundry room. If you plan to buy doors instead of building them, build your boxes to a standard cabinet size so off the shelf doors will fit.
How is the back panel attached?
Cut a 1/4 inch wide groove down each side panel and slide a 1/4 inch plywood back into it. This hides the edges and keeps the box square. Anchor the cabinet to the wall studs before sliding the back in so the screws stay hidden.
Which way should the pocket holes face?
Face them toward whichever side will be hidden. Mine face outward because the sides are tucked between the washer and dryer. If a side will be visible, put the pocket holes on the inside instead.
What are the other steps in the build?
Start with Part 1: The Base Frame, then this box, then Part 3: The Cabinet Door to finish.
Next week, we’ll build the cabinet door so be sure to subscribe so you don’t miss it! You can also check out the YouTube tutorial that corresponds with this post if you need more information. Again, this isn’t the only way to do this, but it’s how I learned and is fairly simple!
Until next time, happy DIY-ing!
-Selene Builds Things
About the author: I’m Selene Teitelbaum, the DIYer behind Selene Builds Things. I build furniture and home projects and share beginner friendly tutorials so anyone can make something they are proud of. More about me.
