We had this sad little dirt patch on our back patio. Every time it rained it turned to mud, tracked into the house, and honestly it just made the whole space look unfinished. So I ordered a roll of artificial turf, gave myself a weekend, and turned it into the softest green corner of our yard. It was the perfect follow-up to the painted patio project I did last summer.
If you have watched my full video tutorial, this post is your companion cheat sheet. You can keep it open on your phone while you work, and I have listed every tool and material so you know exactly what to grab. No gatekeeping here. This is the guide I wish someone had handed me before my first roll of turf.
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Can you really install turf over dirt yourself?
Yes, and a small patch like mine is a perfect first project. Installing artificial turf over dirt comes down to five things: clearing the area, building a solid compacted base, laying the turf, securing it, and adding infill. If you can dig, rake, and use a utility knife, you can do this. My patch was about 8 feet by 10 feet and it took me most of a Saturday, working at a relaxed pace.
Here is the quick version, start to finish:
- Measure your patch and order turf plus about 10 percent extra.
- Clear and dig out the top 3 to 4 inches of dirt.
- Spread and compact a 2 to 3 inch crushed rock base.
- Cover the final inches with sand, level, and compact.
- Add bender board or edging around the border.
- Lay weed barrier fabric over the base.
- Cut it to fit with a sharp blade.
- Secure it with landscape staples or nails.
- Brush in silica sand infill.
- Rinse it down and enjoy.
Tools and materials you will need
Here is everything I used. Buy the base material by the square footage of your space, and grab a little extra turf so you are not stressing over every cut. Most turf will list the width of the roll and will be purchased in ln./ft. (Length/Foot) or you can buy a pre-cut size like 6ft x 8ft. Common roll size widths are 7.5ft / 12ft / 15ft. I linked the exact tools and materials in the shop list below so you can grab them in a couple of clicks. If you are stocking up on tools anyway, my DIY Prime Day deals roundup has more bargains worth a look.
Materials
- Artificial turf (measure your space, then add about 10 percent)
- Crushed rock or decomposed granite for the base (class II road base works great)
- Sand
- Weed barrier fabric
- Bender board or landscape edging (Optional)
- Landscape staples or Landscape Spikes (6-inch galvanized nails)
- Silica sand infill
- Optional: seaming tape and turf adhesive if you are joining two pieces
Tools
- Shovel and a steel rake
- Hand tamper or a plate compactor (you can rent the plate compactor for a half day)
- Electric Scissors (A Utility Knife works too)
- Measuring tape
- Rubber mallet or Hammer
- Stiff push broom
- Garden hose
- Work gloves and knee pads (your knees will thank you)
Shop the tools and materials I used
Everything I used for this build, linked in one spot. The bulky materials are easiest to grab from Lowe’s, and the smaller tools and supplies I got on Amazon.
From Lowe’s
- Artificial turf
- Paver base / crushed rock
- Leveling Sand
- Weed barrier fabric
- Bender board / landscape edging (I didn’t use any since it had a built in concrete barrier already)
- LandScape Spikes
- Hand tamper
- Silica sand infill
- Hammer
- Work gloves
From Amazon
- WorxSharp ZipSnip Cordless Electric Scissors (these work great for this!)
- Utility knife and replacement blades
- Rubber mallet
- Stiff push broom
Step 1: Measure and order your turf
Measure the length and width of your patch and multiply for square footage. Remember that you can order it in 7.5 feet / 12 feet / 15 feet widths. If one side of your space is shorter than that length you will not need to join any pieces. For example if you have 14 ft by 25 foot space you will just need to order 25 foot length of the 15 ft width turf. Order about 10 percent extra so you have room to line up the grain and trim mistakes. One thing I did not know at first: turf has a direction, like carpet. The blades lean one way. Plan for all your pieces to lean the same direction, ideally toward where you will look at it most, so it reads full and even.
Step 2: Clear and dig out the patch
Pull any weeds and dig out the top 3 to 4 inches of dirt so you have room for your base. Get the area roughly level as you go, and slope it very slightly away from your house so water drains off instead of pooling. Rake it smooth and clear out rocks and roots.
Step 3: Build and compact your base
This is the step people rush, and it is the one that decides whether your turf looks great or lumpy in a month. Spread 3 to 4 inches of crushed rock or decomposed granite over the whole area. (When we first put in our attempt at growing real grass we dug it out and laid a gravel base, filling it with sod over top. So, we didn’t have to do this step) Rake it level, lightly mist it with the hose, then compact it hard with a tamper or plate compactor. You want a firm, flat surface that does not shift when you walk on it. Take your time here. A solid base keeps the project looking perfect for years to come. Then we laid a solid layer of paver sand over the top of it and leveled it and then compacted it again.
Step 4: Add your edging
Install bender board or landscape edging around the border of the patch. This keeps your base from spreading out over time and gives your turf a clean line to tuck against. On a patio, you can also let the turf butt right up to the existing concrete or pavers. For our space since it was already set in to an area bordered by concrete on all sides we didn’t add edging.
Step 5: Lay down weed barrier
Roll weed barrier fabric over the compacted base and trim it to fit. This stops anything from growing up through your turf later. Pin it down with a few landscape staples so it does not shift while you work. We held ours down with a few of our edging stones.
Step 6: Roll out the turf and let it relax
Unroll your turf over the area and let it sit for an hour or two, longer on a warm day. Turf comes rolled tight and it needs time to relax flat, otherwise you will fight creases the whole install. This is a good moment to grab a coffee. Make sure the blades are all leaning the direction you planned in step one. If you have the space, lay it out flat the night before.
Step 7: Cut it to fit
Flip the turf over or cut from the back, and go slow with a sharp blade. Or use the tool that we used, WorxSharp ZipSnip, it made cutting way easier. We tried a retractable blade utility knife at first, but it didn’t work great. Then tried our WorxSharp ZipSnip Electric Scissors and it was way better! I definitely recommend picking them up for this job. Make sure, when you do your first cut, to cut it slightly larger than you think on your first pass. You can always trim it down after for a snug fit, but if you cut it too small you can’t make it bigger. If you are going to use a utility knife have plenty of fresh blades, a dull blade drags and gives you a ragged edge. If you are joining two pieces, line up the grain, tuck seaming tape underneath, apply turf adhesive, and press the two edges together without letting the blades fold into the seam. If you are putting turf in a space that is smaller than 15 feet in one direction go with only one piece and no seams.
Step 8: Secure the turf
Starting from one edge, secure the turf with landscape staples or landscape spikes (galvanized nails) every 6 to 8 inches around the perimeter, and across the middle if it is a bigger piece. Tap them in with a rubber mallet or a hammer until the head sits just below the blades. As you go, pull the turf taut so you do not lock in any wrinkles. If you can pinch a piece of turf and see it pick up then add a couple more nails. You should not be able to pull the turf away from the ground.
Step 9: Add infill and brush it up
Spread silica sand infill over the turf and work it down into the blades with a stiff push broom. Infill is not optional. It weighs the turf down, keeps the blades standing upright, and makes it feel soft and springy underfoot instead of flat and fake. Brush against the grain to lift everything up. Add sand, brush, and repeat until the blades stand tall.
Step 10: Rinse and enjoy
Give the whole thing a rinse with the hose to settle the infill and clean off any dust. Then step back and look at what you just did. That muddy dirt patch is now a soft green spot you actually want to stand on. Ours went from the ugliest part of the patio to my favorite corner, and it smells like sunshine after a rinse.
Mistakes I made so you do not have to
- I skimped on compacting the base the first time and got a soft spot that dented under a chair leg. Compact more than you think you need to.
- I forgot turf has a grain and laid one piece backwards. In the sun you could see the difference. Check the lean before you cut.
- I tried to use a utility blade. Don’t. Use the Worx ZipSnip Electric Scissors!
How much does it cost and how long does it take?
For a small patch like ours, about 8′ by 10′, plan on a weekend and right around $400. The turf itself is the biggest cost. One thing to know: turf is sold in fixed roll widths and minimum sizes, so you often have to buy more than your exact space. Our patch was 8′ by 10′, but the smallest piece that worked out was a 10′ by 15′ roll, which ran about $350. The base material, infill, and a $40 tamper made up the rest. Depending on the turf quality you choose and the size of your space, yours will land a little above or below that. Renting a plate compactor for a half day is worth it if you can, but a hand tamper works fine on a patch this size.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a base, or can I lay turf straight on dirt?
You need a base. Laying turf straight on dirt leads to lumps, poor drainage, and weeds pushing through. A compacted crushed rock base is what keeps it flat and lasting.
Is artificial turf good for pets?
Yes, and it is honestly one of my favorite things about it. Our dogs took to it right away and it holds up to them running and lounging on it all day. No more muddy paw prints tracked inside and no dead patches from potty spots. If your pets use it as a bathroom, hose it down every so often, and a turf-safe enzyme cleaner keeps any odor away. Look for turf labeled pet-friendly with good drainage so cleanup stays easy.
How do I keep weeds from growing through?
A layer of weed barrier fabric over your compacted base does most of the work, and the base itself blocks a lot too. Pull any existing weeds before you start.
Does turf drain when it rains?
Yes. Artificial turf has drainage holes across the backing, so as long as your base is compacted and sloped slightly away from the house, water runs right through. Also if you make sure to dig it out and lay crushed gravel under it the drainage will be great.
Why does my turf look flat?
It probably needs infill, or more of it. Silica sand brushed down into the blades is what makes turf stand up and feel real. Brush against the grain to lift the fibers.
That is the whole process. If you want to see any of these steps in motion, watch the full video tutorial, and tell me in the comments what corner of your yard you are fixing next. You have got this.
Until next time,
happy DIY-ing!
xoxo,
Selene Builds Things
